Wills Domain Eightfold Margaret River Chardonnay 2022

I have a wine writing colleague who breaks into ‘She’s So Fine’ by the Easybeats whenever she comes across a mighty good Chardonnay. I reckon this is one of them, definitely worthy of a rousing chorus or two, with its exuberant sherbetty zestiness and citrus punch. Arrives in the glass tight and coiled. A few swishes of air relax the mood, revealing scents of Margs’ distinctive marri blossom, succulent lime, citrus, a hint of tropical fruits with lemon tart/lemon butter complexity – an abiding elegance resides here. There’s also a discreet flint, minerality and a quiet overlay of oak, playing out against gathering middle palate texture. It’s early days in its evolution, but it’s already revealing plenty of Margaret River poise. From an outstanding year, you can bet on a long future. Flavours are warm and summery in nectarine, white peach, citrus. Acidity is lively and firm. She’s so fine . . .