Wills Domain Eightfold Semillon 2021
- 92
- $39
- Drink by: 2022-2026
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An emerging Margaret River winery is always exciting, but much more so when the wines are seriously good. Wills Domain is based on 60 hectares around the Yallingup sub-region. Fruit sources are the Wills Domain Estate, which was established in 1992, and the Yallingup Estate established 1985. The entity – the two merged – is now run by the Haunold family, who have apparently been in the wine industry since 1383, though presumably not in this country. Their winemaker is the immensely respected Richard Rowe, who has previously worked with Evans & Tate, Kirrihill and Leasingham.
This is a very pale wine with yellow hints. Powerful aromatics with an emphasis on cut grass, lemon, spices and fresh summer notes. A pleasing and alluring texture and seamless in style, carried by bright acidity. There is good length here so this is a wine which should drink well for the next two to four years. A lovely and typical example of West Aussie Semillon.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
