Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
- 98
- $175
- Drink by: 2025-2045
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From its very first release with the 1982 vintage, this has invariably been one of Australia’s great Cabernets and its status seems to soar every year. Forty years later, this wine will only enhance that reputation. Maturation was for seventeen months in a mix of French oak barriques and hogsheads, 43% of which were new. If anyone thought that attempting to follow the amazing 2021 would be a bridge too far, this wine will have confirmed that nothing is impossible. Another stunning effort, which I have actually scored a touch higher than its wonderful predecessor. Opaque maroon, there is a refinement and suppleness to this wine, which is all a bit thrilling. There is finesse and immaculate balance. The nose exhibits an array of flavours, black fruits throughout, notably blackberries, with chocolate, tobacco leaves, plum pudding, blueberries, cassis and aniseed. Oak integration is of the highest order and the tannins are simply silk. There is great length and while the elegance is a highlight, the intensity here never wavers. A brilliant John Riddoch which has at least twenty years ahead of it – even more if you have the patience or are keen to make your grandkids think very highly of you.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
