Zema Estate Family Selection Shiraz 2016

Long term fixtures in the Coonawarra wine scene, Nick Zema and his family will celebrate the fortieth anniversary of their winery next year, a wonderful achievement. It has not always been easy and they often slide below the radar, but they have never faltered in producing quality regional wines which represent excellent value. I do have a small problem with these two Family Selection releases from 2016 (great to see aged wines released at such brilliant prices), both wearing the new, and to be honest, much more impressive livery.

Usually, in Coonawarra, it is taken as read that the Cabernet offered by any producer will be a superior wine to their Shiraz, despite Shiraz having played such an important role in the development of the region. For me, this Shiraz is at least the equal of the Cabernet. The Shiraz was fermented for a week with part barrel fermentation for complexity. The wine then spent two years in a mix of new and one-year-old American and French barrels.

A deep purple/magenta colour with the nose offering an array of fragrances and giving the immediate impression that this is a finely balanced wine, right off the bat. Aromas of blackberries, animal hides, dense fruit and serious concentration of flavours. Some oak is evident but it is well integrated. There is a slightly surprising character on the nose which is more reminiscent of a cracking Rhône red than what one might expect from Coonawarra. On the palate, it is back to normal with typical choc/mint notes and excellent persistence. Really good length over very fine tannins. The more I looked at this wine, the more I liked it. It is already showing early complexity. A good decade ahead.

Ken Gargett

Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic