Clonakilla Viognier 2025

Is this the most famous Viognier in Australia. Let’s say close, but the prize probably goes to the component that goes into Clonakilla’s famous Shiraz Viognier. Effectively the same thing, just used differently. Current winemaker, Tim Kirk, has provided a litany (allow me that one attempt at a religious pun and I promise never to do it again – for those unaware, Tim was once destined for a career that was decidedly more non-secular than winemaking) of fabulous wines and this sits highly amongst them. His father, John, planted Viognier at the estate in 1986, and they have a range of clones. When making this, they used a combination of destemming and whole bunches with a wild fermentation. Maturation is for eleven months on lees in the barrels used for fermentation. Early days, but 2025 is proving to be an impressive vintage for the Canberra region. Lemon/straw, there is no mistaking the variety used here. We have strong ginger, apricot skins and spicy notes, with the merest hint of oak, exquisitely integrated. There is great length here, and on the palate we see further spices and a touch of citrus. A lingering finish, everything is finely balanced and the wine is utterly delicious. This is a cracking Viognier and will provide immense pleasure over the next eight years.

Ken Gargett

Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic