Cullen Ephraim 2024
- 92
- $50
- Drink by: 2025-2029
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Ephraim Mayo Clarke was Kevin John Cullen’s grandfather, Vanya’s great-grandfather, a Member of Parliament who preceded the efforts of his descendants by establishing the first winery in the southwest, in Bunbury, way back in 1896. From the Mangan vineyard, this is a blend of 76% Malbec and 24% Petit Verdot, which saw eight months in oak, 30% new. Opaque maroon, the nose reveals aromas of plums, spices, black cherries, red apples and raspberries, with hints of woodsmoke. Still very youthful, from a record hot, dry vintage, there is mouth puckering acidity, velvety tannins, bright flavours and a persistent finish. Will provide a lot of pleasure over the next two to four years but well cellared, will go on a lot further than that.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
