E. J. McDougall Old Vine Shiraz 2023

From two small blocks in one vineyard planted 1939 and 1942. No irrigation in 2023. Handpicked and destemmed with selected stems then put back in for fermentation in concrete vats. Basket pressed off for elevage in seasoned French foudre for 12 months. 14.5% ABV. Peppercorn, subtle stemmy spice, stewed rhubarb, tilled earth, dried herbs and black tea leaf sit above velvety, dark and vibrant forest berry fruits in the form of blackberry and  black plum. There’s some savoury black olive and a whisper of paprika beneath, rounding out what is a poised and complex aromatic profile. The palate has a creamy and weighty texture but it’s cut up and lifted by firm structure. Blackberry, brown spice, milk chocolate, stemminess, dried flowers, plum and mulberry are coiled within firm-but-fine grainy tannins. Great acidity here, it rolls through the back palate adding coolness and lift, slicing through the wine’s textural heft. The finish is poised and long with some espresso like bitterness adding a gastronomic edge. This is dark in profile but with a velvety aesthetic, great complexity and critically architectural structure.