Holm Oak Arneis 2025
- 92
- $32
- Drink by: 2026-2031
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Arneis may never have been destined for the mainstream, but I’m always a little surprised that it hasn’t taken off in this country to a much greater degree than what we have seen. Certainly, the quality of the wines it provides would suggest it deserves that. This example was allowed to see the fruit settle for eighteen hours, before it was transferred to their Numblot egg (fermentation and maturation in egg-shaped vessels is becoming more and more popular), which accounted for 25% of the harvest, with the rest going into older oak barrels. After a natural fermentation, the wine spent a further five months maturing on yeast lees. Yellow/straw, this has a rather lovely sun-on-warm-rocks character. We have notes of stone fruit, apples and hints of apricot skins as well. A wine of precision and focus with a good lingering finish and bright, zesty acidity throughout. Enjoy this over the next five years and while you are doing so, ponder why we do not see more Arneis. This is yet more confirmation of the quality that can be on offer.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
