Howard Park Scotsdale Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Mount Barker fruit to the fore here, making a statement about all kinds of vinous things. About the role of a cool climate powdery tannins and dried herbs in Cabernet Sauvignon, about the grape’s longevity, and about our expectations of the grape in this country.

Howard Park co-founder Jeff Burch says that with this wine he has been accused of making Cabernet for Pinot lovers . . . interesting analogy. I’d take it as a compliment.

We often expect a rounder, softer, fuller Cabernet in this country, and that’s okay. However, Scotsdale provides a different perspective: fleshy but firm, concentrated but also fine-boned.

There’s a power of blackcurrant intensity to this wine and a delight to be had in relishing its varietal energy with briar, bay leaf, earth, matched quietly with an oak presence. A lifted aromatic edge helps push the flavours long.