Jim Brand Domain Coonawarra Cabernets Family Reserve 2019
- 98
- $85
- Drink by: 2022-2042
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Clearly, winemaking talent ruins in the family. Sam, the current family custodian, is the latest generation. I remember meeting Eric Brand, a Coonawarra legend, very briefly, when I first became interested in wine. Jim, in honour of whom these wines are named, I knew better and I am far from alone in saying that he would be immensely impressed and indeed humbled by what is and has been achieved in his name. He was a terrific bloke and bled Coonawarra Cabernet. Generous with his time and knowledge, sadly, he was taken from us far too early. As I mentioned, he’d be delighted with the wines Sam is making, but I think he would be blown away by this one especially. For me, the best I have yet seen under this label. It is a stunner and sits comfortably with the finest I have seen from Coonawarra in recent years. It sets a high bar for what we can expect from Sam in the future. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, the fruit used here is selected from their very best 1% of the fruit harvested. Deep magenta, it opens with a wonderful nose. Violets, blackcurrants, mint, bergamot, bay leaves and cassis. Seamless and complete, this is so finely balanced. Move to the palate and licorice emerges – licorice and mint. Great length here with silky tannins too. This is so well crafted that the hand of man seems entirely absent. Glorious now, it will sail through twenty years – and likely be even better then. If there is a heaven, Jim is looking down on us and enjoying a glass (better yet, a bottle) of this wine.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
