Kooyong Estate Chardonnay 2019
- 94
- $42
- Drink by: 2021-2028
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Made from grapes harvested from their Tuerong vineyard in the Mornington Peninsula, which was planted in 1996 to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and small quantities of Pinot Gris and Shiraz. In particular, it hails from the Faultline and Farrago blocks. The grapes were gently whole-bunch pressed, straight into French oak barriques (15% new), with fermentation by native yeasts. There followed 11 months ageing on lees, with no bâtonnage at all during this period. Bottling was without fining and with minimal filtration.
This is a cracking Chardonnay and compelling evidence that the Mornington Peninsula must be included in any debate about which are our top regions for the variety. The colour is like sunshine glinting off gold. The aromatics are a weave of peaches, florals, a hint of cashews, stonefruit, beeswax, spices and seamless oak integration. A creamy texture for the full length of this terrific wine. The intensity is maintained throughout, over nicely balanced acidity. Lovely complexity is evident, though there is no doubt more to come. Towards the finish, appealing passionfruit characters emerge. This offers five to six years at least, of delicious drinking. Really like this. It screams out for a crab salad.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
