Longview Devil’s Elbow Adelaide Hills Cabernet 2021
- 93
- $30
- Drink by: 2023-2033
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Estate fruit from 28-year-old vines, all from the Old Reynella clone, is fermented in open vats/tanks for two weeks, before the wine spends fifteen months maturing in older French puncheons, just 10% new. An opaque purple hue, the aromas work through tobacco leaves, chocolate, leather, plums, black fruits, hints of campfire notes and cassis. There is the merest whiff of the dry vegetation character which Cabernet often offers, along with the variety’s traditional austerity. This is youthful and fresh now, but is built for the long haul. Good concentration and balance, there are fine but firm tannins. Notes of black cherries emerge on the finish. A cracking local cooler climate Cabernet, which will provide a decade’s pleasure.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
