Oliver’s Taranga Vermentino 2021

Previous generations of the Oliver family probably never heard of varieties such as Vermentino or Fiano or Mencia (who had?), but Corrina Wright, sixth generation and the family winemaker at their 100 hectare property in the middle of McLaren Vale, has shown everyone just how well suited they are and how good the wines from these unfamiliar grapes can be. I first met Corrina what seems a million years ago when we were both students at the Len Evans Tutorial and so I have followed her subsequent career with considerable interest, though little surprise. She is one seriously talented individual, as is evident throughout this collection.

The team give each wine a little story about what happened that year. For this wine, ‘the year that Corrina’s bulldog, Marj, joined the team’. Sometimes they can seem a little stretched but, as always, what is in the bottle is far more important than what is on it. Part of their Small Batch program (where they have less than two tonnes of a particular grape), this is near crystal clear. Aromas emerge of nuts, citrus, stonefruit, quince, even a hint of oystershell, with that appealing minerally background. Neatly balanced, this is a clean, refreshing style. There is a note which I can only describe as river stones from a fresh flowing trout stream. Good acidity. That minerally undertow is never far away. A lovely aperitif style or even better with fresh seafood.

Ken Gargett

Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic