Patrick Sullivan Black Sands Chardonnay 2024

Planted in 1990, The Black Sands vineyard is located just west of the township of Heywood in Western Victoria, with a unique shallow blend of black volcanic sand and basalt over pure and deep white limestone. As with all of the 2024 Chardonnay releases, this was barrel fermented before full malo and elevage in barrique for eleven months with 30% new. 13.8% abv. It’s pithy and tensile from the outset with a lovely almond nuttiness intermingling with lemon pith and white grapefruit before a bite of preserved lemon and a glimmer of hard cheese rind. There’s some subtle flint and oyster shell, too, and some cedar wood taking a back seat. Air unlocks some lemon thyme, a glimmer of mandarin oil, and citrus blossom with air – the latter of which subtly sweetens the aromatic profile. This unfurls nicely in the glass though still has a coiled feel. The palate is taut and crunchy, cutting through an otherwise creamy texture with notes of lemon balm, lemon oil, citrus preserves, grapefruit pith and almond. Lovely firm acidity here, carrying a saline note long through the finish in tandem with a lick of chalky grip. I like the crunchy energy and pithy edge of this wine, and it’ll relax nicely with some time in the cellar.