A picture of intense concentration. Sea spray, oyster shell, white peach, nectarine and the slow curl of grapefruit and lemon zest rise from the glass. Yattarna is surely home to one of the most recognisable chardonnay scents in the country. It’s at once delicate but rich and all-pervasive. Utterly delicious. Builds deceptively, furtively, through the mouth gathering pace and texture. Warm honeysuckle notes, summer fruits, stone fruit kernel nuttiness and nougat run long and deep on the palate. Wrapped in a firm, citrussy acidity, the 2019 Yattarna is mighty good-drinking right now.
A wine forever in progress, Yattarna – otherwise known as Bin 144 – has seen many incarnations in its 25 years. To think that McLaren Vale was once a grape source. Times changed pretty fast as the focus tended towards high altitudes and/or cool, southerly aspects. The 2019 is a blend of Tasmania, Tumbarumba and the Adelaide Hills. The mix is set to change from year to year. In 2019, it stands up to the original project concept, to develop an “ultra-fine” Australian chardonnay.