Piazzo Barbera d’Alba Fil Rus
- 92
- $50
- Drink by: 2026-2032
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Good Barbera from Piedmont must be the most underrated and overlooked wine imaginable. No doubt, retailers will tell me otherwise, but whatever they’re selling, it should be more. These wines are just a joy to drink. This example has fruit sourced from the hills around Alba and also Roera. Fermentation is on skins in stainless steel, after which it is allowed to mature for a further six to eight months. Under an agglomerated cork. Bright garnet with a ruby rim, this is quite a meaty style with a savouriness throughout it. We have aromas of mushrooms, red berries, dry herbs, charcuterie and spicy notes. A line of fine acidity runs the length, which is medium to good, and there are fine tannins on the finish. A juicy style for enjoying over the next four to six years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
