Silver Heights Jiayuan Marselan 2023
- 92
- $70
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Hand-picked over two separate harvests from the sandier Jishan vineyard soils for freshness and structure, then de-stemmed and fermented in stainless steel before 12 months in 100% new French oak. Marselan is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, which is exactly how this presents stylistically. Primary fruits kick off the perfume with plum, blackcurrant and dark cherry conserve, leading to cassia, cumin, dried green herbs, white pepper, cured meats, a waft of camphor, and sandy earth. There’s a tar-like note sitting behind. The palate is medium to full in body, led by similar fruit notes that nestle within a sandy Grenache-like texture, perpetuated by firm-but-fine sandy/grainy tannins that frame it to solid length. It sits in familiar territory for the variety — soft and plummy — but doesn’t lack for character, with real balance and layers of spice and savoury complexity giving it plenty to enjoy. This calls out for dishes centered around grilled meats to pick up the spice and temper the structure. That would elevate things.
Tom Kline is a wine writer, reviewer, presenter, and educator based in Victoria, Australia. He is the Australian correspondent for the internationally respected publications Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy and Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux, where he highlights the top tier of Australian wine for a global audience. Tom also writes for leading outlets including Decanter (UK), Wine Spectator (US), and Halliday Magazine, among others. An experienced wine show judge and WSET educator, he has authored several consumer-focused wine courses aimed at making wine more accessible and engaging. In 2023, Tom was awarded Best Published Feature Article or Wine Column at the prestigious Wine Communicator Awards, presented by Wine Communicators of Australia.
