Ulithorne ‘Familia’ McLaren Vale Shiraz 2018
- 94
- $40
- Drink by: 2022-2032
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Everything we suggested about the ‘Immortelle’ being in the perfect place to succeed applies just as much to this wine. You could put money on it (and we suggest you do just that, squirreling a few away in the cellar). Made by way of fermentation in a mix of small open fermenters and static fermenters, before pressed to barrel for ten months maturation.
Deep magenta in colour, this does need time in the glass to open up. Initially, it is tight, taut, tense and muscular. With a little time, we have a glorious cornucopia of aromas – coffee bean, chocolate, blackberries, mulberries and more. The palate is also looking very impressive. Good acidity runs the length and more dark chocolate notes become apparent. This is moving right into classic McLaren Vale Shiraz territory, although that is hardly surprising. Good length and the intensity is maintained for the full journey. A long future awaits any bottles well cellared. A cracker.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
