Vasse Felix Sauvignon Blanc 2023

Once upon a time, this Sauvignon might have been labelled “fumé,” after all, it has been fermented wild in large format French oak foudres and puncheons with some full skin contact. In other words, the use of oak might normally bring “fume” to the label, but times change and now we see a range of Sauvignons that don’t need any special introduction – just taste them. Here, taste will take you to a Sauvignon starting to show some development as a three-year-old in gold hues and flavours built around bottle age that move into honeyed baked quince, citrus and stone fruits with a savoury almond cream appeal. This is a serious Sauvignon, a partner to food, a wine with gravitas showing the grape in a serious light. Grippy tannins are in play together with a lemony bright acidity, but the scene stealer is the depth of flavour – yellow peach, stone fruits, spiced pear, quince, buttered toast with exotic touches of lemongrass and pea shoots. Complex? You bet. Once you get your head around a Sauvignon with some bottle age, the flavours can really sing.