Wills Domain Paladin Hill Chardonnay 2020
- 96
- $85
- Drink by: 2022-2030
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If forced to pick one wine from the latest releases from Wills Domain, this would be it (the Matrix would be a very close second). This is a Chardonnay which can sit comfortably among the ranks of the elite Margaret River wines. It might fly largely under the radar at the moment, but do not expect that to last. Sourced from various blocks in Yallingup, this was, as is usual with this estate, hand-harvested while the grapes were still enjoying the cool of the morning. Transported to the cool room for a 12-hour stint and then whole bunch pressed into barrels with only the free run juice used. The team believe that this contributes to “the
fine tight structure of the wine”. Natural yeasts were utilised as they provide for a slower ferment and more complexity and there was no malolactic fermentation. The wine spent 8 months in barrel with the most minimal stirring regime. The oak is 100% French, 40% new with 225-litre barrels from Latour and 500-litre barrels from Sirogue. Then the best part of a year in bottle before release.
The result is a superb wine – complex, balanced, intense and refined. It is both concentrated and yet elegant with a gentle hint of cashew nut and a touch of oak, but it is well integrated. Ginger, fresh summer greens, melon and a hint of a lovely crème brûlée character. There is length and focus with a supple texture and great length too. A wine which maintains its intensity throughout – always a good sign. This is a cracking Margaret River Chardonnay, whether you are planning on enjoying it now or over the next five to eight years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
