Cirillo 1850 Ancestor Vine Semillon 2017

My first encounter with aged semillon was back in 2014. I freed a bottle of a ’94 Hunter Valley relic that served as a dust gatherer at a small bottle-o and I fell in love immediately. The truth is that I could hardly think of anything more uniquely Australian than varietal semillon, yet it might be even more under-appreciated than riesling. Victim of the cancel culture? Perhaps it is yet to be truly discovered for many of us! 

There is a collection of old vines deep in the Barossa Valley, which might be the oldest known semillon vineyard in the world. That’s right, a piece of living wine history at our doorstep. Historically Barossa Semillon distinguished itself from the Hunter Valley as a ripe and fuller style with pronounced oak influence. Marco Cirillo opts for freshness and harvests the grapes earlier from his ancient vines for a crisp acid line. The result speaks for itself. 

Pale lime in colour, showing subtle aromas of lemon aspen, hay, and papaya skin. Low alcohol but by no means less flavour; think lemon sherbet, crushed green ants with yoghurt undertones. The round mouthfeel is beautifully balanced by the linear acidity, subtle salinity and pithy bitterness. A bargain for the price and an affordable special occasion wine! Especially considering how meaningful those 1850 vines are for Australian wine! And… it will only get better in the cellar! 

Marcell Kustos

Marcell is the Beverage Director at Restaurant Botanic and, with his cross-functional background, re-defines the role of modern-day sommelier. After obtaining a qualification in food engineering and winemaking operations, Marcell started his career as a food product developer before turning his hand to wine. He began working as a sommelier while undertaking a Master's degree in gastronomy. His curiosity for memorable wine experiences led to a PhD in food, wine and emotional pairing at the University of Adelaide in collaboration with Wine Australia and UC Davis. As the Head Sommelier and Wine Buyer at Penfolds Magill Estate, Marcell curated one of the country's most extensive champagne lists and created memorable experiences with a twist of science. Just recently, Marcell has joined a new project showcasing Australian botanicals and native ingredients. As a beverage director, he is responsible for product development, industry collaborations and creating a whole new dining experience. Marcell has been a contributing author in several academic and industry journals and continues to evolve as a wine judge. And if that wasn’t enough, he recently co-founded a wine label (LUDO wines) to make brave wines with transparency, curiosity and precision. Photo credit: Meaghan Coles and VINE & BUBBLE Magazine