Curly Flat Central Pinot Noir 2018

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Into the dark woods we go, surrounded by the scent of undergrowth, hummus, dark berries and dried herbs. There’s some serious intent delivered here in the glass. 

A top vintage, old vines (planted in 1992 and the vineyard’s oldest block) and power to burn all play a role. For the wine nuts, the Central block plantings are the most elevated on the property, 540 metres, and the popular pinot clone in Victoria, MV6, makes the biggest contribution.

Colour is deepest crimson. Black cherry, blackberry and black tea – there is a theme happening here –they all rise from the glass together with the scent of earth and undergrowth. Where the flagship 2018 pinot noir from Curly Flat was sweet-fruited, this is savoury and brooding. The tannins are complicit in the savouriness. Central is one of three pinots made from the 2018 vintage, very individual and, to my mind, the most striking with an almost haunting finish.