Hewitson Monopole Shiraz Mother Vine 2020

With vine material sourced from one single Shiraz vine planted amongst the 1853 Old Garden Mourvèdre vines, Dean Hewitson has created a clonal vineyard of the old vine. He notes that the “Mother Vine” grapes are different to other Barossa planted Shiraz, producing much smaller grapes and bunches. Whatever the reason, the wine shines. Dense and bright in shades of purple, garnet. Love the respect shown here for the grape, bringing forward delicate, fragrant aromas in lavender, sage and green peppercorns while providing a generous background in loganberry, black cherry and bramble, topped by a black olive, bacon fat layer of oak. There is great intensity and concentration, but also there is a delicacy. It’s a rare combo. Fruit is given full sway – super complex and beautifully aromatic – oak is in unison bringing with it a delightful trail of spice, and tannins are lithe and savoury. Not a vinous hair out of place. Delightful now but just wait, if you can.