Kooyong Estate Chardonnay 2020
- 94
- $42
- Drink by: 2022-2028
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The fruit for this vintage of the Estate Chardy is from their Faultline and Farrago vineyards, which reflect exactly the selection they have worked with for years for the Estate wine. Whole bunch pressed into French oak (18% new), with fermentation taking place thanks to wild yeasts. Aged on lees for 11 months, with no batonnage, no fining and minimal filtration. Very pale lemon in colour, this is a subtle Chardonnay, thoroughly appealing in every way. We have florals, stonefruits, gentle citrus, apricot kernels and a hint of woodsmoke. There is good focus here, well crafted, and a minerally backing. As we move through it, oatmeal notes emerge. Terrific texture and excellent length. This has five to six years and more ahead of it and will continue to improve throughout that time. I like the very attractive Chardonnay a lot.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
