Robert Oatley The Pennant Margaret River Chardonnay 2020
- 96
- $95
- Drink by: 2022-2030
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Australia is well known for great reds, for thrilling Rieslings, incredible fortifieds and much more, including some rather special Chardonnay, but if I were asked to predict the wine which will become our most highly regarded in say fifty years, it would be very hard to go past Margaret River Chardonnay. It is fast becoming one of the world’s best Chardies, challenging long held views of Burgundy and other regions. This example comes from the best grapes the team could source from vineyards in the sub-regions of Karridale and Wilyabrup, an even split. The Chardonnay used here is all Gin Gin clone material. The grapes are whole bunch pressed into ‘new, tight-grained, low toast’ French oak. Fermentation is with natural yeasts and the wine then spends ten months maturing in barrel. The final blend is from a ‘rigorous’ barrel selection. A deep yellow/lemon colour. This is a wine of refined finesse and all class. There is a hint of smoky oak with notes moving through peaches, ginger and limes. Great focus here, it is taut, and poised, and seems to be just waiting for the starting gun to release all its glories. A gorgeous, brilliant, seamless Chardonnay. Drink now and for the next eight years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
