Santa d’Sas Ish… Dolcetto 2019
- 90
- $25
- Drink by: 2025-2028
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An aged King Valley Dolcetto is not everyday fare, at least not for me. Dolcetto is usually drunk fairly young, made sans oak and designed to be fresh, fruity and delicious, if light red territory drinking. This example underwent a slow ferment followed by a short maturation on lees in concrete tanks. Deep garnet, this is very much from the savoury end of the spectrum. Plums, mulberries, fleshy notes and garden herbs, there is still some pleasing freshness to the wine. There is a line of quite feisty acidity with fine but firm, and even a little sandy, tannins. A wine of medium length, now would seem the ideal time to open this wine, but well cellared examples will more than handle a few more years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
