Squitchy Lane Vineyard Yarra Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2019

Some years back Squitchy Lane produced a fumé style of sauvignon blanc. There is no specific fumé wording on the label of this wine, but I suspect it’s built along similar lines with fermentation in barrel and a touch of light smokiness that is hugely appealing. The use of oak also broadens the scope – and appeal – of this wine, contributing texture and flavour. But it remains discreet, nicely so. The bouquet celebrates the grape’s green, herbal side with a display of intense lemongrass, herbs, green bean, asparagus and a touch of nougat, savoury biscuits. So fresh and alive. The palate is equally concentrated and intense in shades of green herbs and earthy vegetables– the grape’s distinctive methoxypyrazine compounds are having a ball here – with real green apple crunch and light smoky aromatics. Runs firm and long with a bright flash of saline, sea spray to finish.