Delatite Devil’s River 2020
- 92
- $42
- Drink by: 2025-2033
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If memory serves, this wine used to be especially minty in character, many years ago – very much a love-it-or-hate-it style. There is still just a hint, but it is a more complete and complex wine these days. The blend is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 55% Merlot from vines growing biodynamically, which are between 40 and 45 years in age. 15% of the wine was fermented in older oak puncheons and given a further eight months maturation there. And opaque maroon hue, there are notes of kirsch, blackberries, smoked meats, aniseed and chocolate. This is refined, balanced and has good focus. A touch of gentle acidity sits in the background. Very enjoyable for drinking anytime over the next five to eight years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
