Houghton Old Vine Chenin Blanc EV37 2023

The Houghton name is one that has a strong history with Chenin Blanc, so it’s fantastic to see this premium release with a reference to winemaker Courtney Treacher on the label. There’s no shortage of flint and smoky funk on the nose, but there’s a swell of saline crispness and ripe golden fruit swimming up from beneath. There’s plenty at play with cheesecloth and parmesan rind, followed by lemon zest and candied lemon, sea spray, quince and lemon leaf. It swings from the chandelier with personality, complemented by a sweetness and power of the fruit core. The palate has a lovely grip and layered texture; this is a strong-willed Chenin with plenty in the tank, developing wonderfully as the bottle has time to breathe. Drink now to 2034.