Sordo Barolo Monvigliero 2017

From the famed Monvigliero vineyard in the Novello commune, regarded as a grand cru though not officially cited as one, this wine has some serious personality to it, and lots to unpack for the senses – lots of little hints as you go in deep. There’s subtle cherry as often is the case, with top notes of lavender and delicate mint leaf. More earth-bound are spice, white pepper, pencil case and lead feels – the winemaking regime includes a seven-week maceration in stainless steel, then two years in large Slavonian vats, though no oak impacts the wine. Tannins are subtle too, almost benign, allowing all the savoury elements and flavours to flow on an on, keeping the palate endlessly fascinating. Bound to carry itself grandly in every dining scenario.