Kym Tolley Wine Co. The Last Emperor Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2021

A great winemaker never really retires. Such was the call of the vine that 10 years after selling Penley Estate to his sisters, Kym Tolley is back, and it is with a bang! The man makes just one wine and, quite frankly, that is enough because it is an absolute stunner. So many layers here to explore, but first he has put together a great ensemble  cast comprising some mighty impressive Cabernet Sauvignon (52%)  and Shiraz (48%) from Coonawarra, Barossa and McLaren fruit from what was a top vintage. There is power and beauty to be discovered in equal measure. Take a deep breath and take in aromas of forest floor, undergrowth, earth, blackberries, black plum, dark liquorice, notes of coffee grounds and chocolate and a generous spiciness. Savoury, earthy tannins shine, aiding the delivery of a deeply complex palate of ripe fruits, spice, earth and dried herbs in oregano, mint, chocolate. Smart cedary toasty oak carries the fruit with aplomb and poise. While deeply complex, this wine is not beyond approachability now, often the hallmark of an outstanding wine. Released with five years bottle age only adds to its great attraction. Expect something special in the glass.

Jeni Port

Wine critic at Winepilot

Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.

Wine writer and critic