Marchand & Burch Mt Barrow Pinot Noir 2024
- 94
- $100
- Drink by: 2025-2035
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The Mount Barrow Vineyard in the Great Southern, which Jeff Burch and Pascal Marchand felt was the only genuine option for a climate cool enough for Pinot Noir to succeed, was planted in 2005. For many years, Western Australian Pinot Noir was little more than a curio, but wines like this have established its reputation as a genuine contender. Clones 114 and 115 form the majority of this wine. The team use 10% whole bunches in the fermentation, which is conducted in French barriques, 20% of the oak new. Deep ruby/red in colour, we are sitting at the savoury end of the spectrum with this delicious Pinot Noir. Aromas of truffles along with tobacco leaves, charcuterie and dark cherries are to the fore. There are notes of sweet oak, but it is superbly integrated and adding to this most appealingly fragrant style. There is a silky texture, very fine structure and good length, but it certainly remains one for those who love those mushroomy, leaf litter, smoked meats, savoury notes. One of the very Best Western Australian Pinot Noirs I’ve encountered, it should continue to appeal for at least a decade. An early spoiler, a barrel sample of this wine from 2025 suggests that there may be even greater things ahead. Welcome to the new age of Western Australian Pinot. Love it.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
