Tapanappa Definitus Pinot Noir 2023
- 97
- $90
- Drink by: 2026-2046
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If one may begin with the bottom line, this is the best Definitus Pinot Noir I have seen. Indeed, I’m not sure I can recall seeing a better Pinot made by Brian Croser. Given what he has achieved over what has already become a legendary career, that would certainly be saying something. Loved the 2022, but for me, this eclipses it. The fruit for Definitus comes from a block that is harvested separately, even though it is located in the centre of the Foggy Hill slope. It was planted in 2003 to clones 115 and 777, which the team believe gives greater fruit intensity and colour than they achieve in the rest of the vineyard. This is the sixth release of this wine. No ‘whole fruit’ was used, thanks to the cooler vintage. Maturation was for eight months in barriques. Pale russet with an ochre rim, it offers such an alluring nose with notes of red cherries, leaf litter, truffles, cranberries, smoked meats, spices, bay leaves and animal skins. Just love this nose. The wine is seamless in structure, and there is a seductive and creamy texture. It is impeccably balanced and very, very long, finishing with silky tannins and a flicker of good acidity. For me, a stunning Pinot Noir for enjoying over the next fifteen to twenty years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
